Jungle Isolation
SEBATU SANCTUARY
Sebatu, Bali
It’s the end of March, rainy season in Bali. I’m on my way North on my motorbike, to spend some quiet days over Nyepi – Bali’s silent day. It’s not only the celebration of the Hindu Lunar New Year, but also a day dedicated to self-reflection, meditation and relaxation.
After passing Ubud, the temperature drops and a dark cloud front builds up on the horizon. The more I am heading North, the more the air becomes fresher, and the more the landscape becomes greener. Wind is blowing in my face as I rush through the palm-lined streets. I take a deep breath, already smelling the rain. A few moments later, it starts pouring. I throw over my rain cape, as I am almost there.
After a 30 minutes ride from Ubud centre, I arrive at Sebatu Sanctuary. An eco-boutique-resort surrounded by tropical jungle and rice paddies, owing its name to Sebatu village, which is renowned for its ancient temple and sacred springs.
First thing that grabs my attention are the four perfectly restored vintage VWs. A bus in sunny yellow, another two in blue-white, a Beatle Cabriolet in cream, and not to forget, a charmingly old BMW motorbike, all dating back to the 60s and 70s. Someone must be a connoisseur of German classic cars, I think.
I am welcomed at the reception slash restaurant tent. Yes, you’ve heard right. The resort’s design is shaped by the owner’s fascination for the golden age of exploration (1450s – 1850s). Alexander Stanley and his wife Evi offer guests unique accommodations inspired by the early explorers. Their small collection of vintage treasures includes an original copy of the first publication of “James Cook’s voyages around the world” from 1787.
As a professional forester and conservationist, it's no surprise that Alexander places great emphasis on environmental friendliness at his resort. In all eight housings spread over 1,3 hectares of land, the adventurous design is married with ecological values.
The property comprises two African safari tents, two original antique Javanese bungalows with a modern touch, and a Dutch colonial style villa with two bedrooms. Additionally, two bamboo houses and a hobbit inspired tree house with suspension bridge, will be completed in May 2020.
After check-in Wayan takes me to my home for the next three days. On the way there we stop at the natural pool, which is inhabited by shoals of colourful fish. With our Japanese umbrellas, we are walking down the stone steps, leading through the tropical garden. Among the rich diversity of plants, I recognize red calla, strelitzia and my oh so favourite tree ferns.
I take my shoes off and enter my spacious tent designed by Escape Nomade. The Bali-based brand is specialised in creating concepts of luxury living without walls. It all screams ‘let’s go back to nature, but in a classy way’. For a second, I doubt if we’re still on the same island, or if we passed an invisible portal to a different world. This is my very first glamping experience on the island.
The four-poster bed is the centrepiece of the 40 sqm tent, which is entirely covered with reclaimed ironwood flooring from old Indonesian piers. Around it a number of loungers, luggage-inspired cabinets, and an explorer’s desk with jungle view, which resembles a video projection. Sand-coloured canvas, brown leather, dark wood, and woven cane characterise the Safari look. The tent walls can be rolled up and down, serving as mosquito and rain protection.
Time for a coffee break on the swinging bank outside, listening to the peaceful sound of the unceasing rain. An awning protects me from the drops gliding down the large fern tree leaves, which are stretched over the wooden balcony like umbrellas.
The en-suite features a rain shower and an open-air bathtub made of massive stone, which is surrounded by a fish pond. If you take a bath, a frog might join you for a swim. On the left and right, water gently splashes down the stone wall like a small waterfall. Freshwater mostly comes from the in-house water tower that looks like a lighthouse. It can stock up to 20.000 liters, making the resort completely independent from local water sources during rainy season. Amenities such as AC and fans are installed, but not necessary in this comfortable climate. Being partially solar powered, the tent’s environmental impact is minimal.
At arrival, I joined a WhatsApp group for room service contact. It’s dinnertime. I check the menu and order food via text message. 40 minutes later I enjoy an excellent jackfruit curry with spicy flavours of lemongrass, ginger, coriander and kaffir lime on my balcony. Most ingredients grow on the resort’s property. There is also an open-air kitchen a few steps away from my tent, notably useful for long-term guests.
For sunset I take a walk in the picturesque rice paddies nearby. Silhouettes of the mountains loom in the distance. If you are lucky, fireflies will kiss you good night.
After the first night and breakfast served in my tent, I am in recovery mode. My mind feels wiped blank from all the troubles, and thoughts become clearer. I indulge into silence. Hearing nothing but rippling water, rustling leaves, and the chirps of the wildlife feels to me like a natural remedy.
It is Nyepi day, Wednesday March 25th, 2020. The streets are empty and all networks are off. Perfect – no temptation to go online. Next level disconnection and isolation. I spend a full phone-free day of creation and relaxation, enjoying the privacy. I do not encounter a single soul, except the staff who kindly deliver my pre-ordered meals. It may be hard to imagine, but I really could do a Nyepi day every week! Probably it would be simply equivalent to a ‘proper’ Sunday, that we used to have before the digital age. Places like Sebatu Sanctuary redefine luxury and bring us back to our roots – which we often forget in everyday life – to connect with nature and ourselves.
In the afternoon, I head to the natural chemical-free pool. It is the only one on this island – lucky me! Living on the oceanside, I’ve been dreaming of clear German mountain lakes for a while now. Glad I could find something comparable in Bali. The crystal-clear water is sourced from Gunung Kawi temple and rainfalls, splashing down into the pool from a three meters waterfall, providing enough oxygen for the five inhabiting species of fish.
The closed natural cleaning system for the pool is so unique that it is worth to explain. The light layer of algae that grows on the gravel ground, is rich in microelements and bacteria. These turn fish waste into phosphate and nitrate, which is a natural fertilizer. Through pipes, the pool water is pumped into a small pond at the entrance of the resort. The surrounding plants act as filter, pulling out phosphate and nitrate for their growth. From there, the clean water flows through a small watercourse back to the waterfall at the pool. The pump is operated with self-generated solar energy, leaving no ecological footprint. Who could have imagined that?
I jump in and feel so refreshed. Watching the more than 300 fish underwater is much better than Netflix! After my swim, I unwind on a lounger next to giant leaves of the paradise flower, and soak up the sun and the jungle vibes. This moment instantly reminds me of my childhood summer holidays, that we spent at a friend’s house in Gaujac, a village in the French South. Only in Bali, the green is richer. In Provence it is mild like sage.
Above the pool is Bali’s only tented restaurant called Evicurious (Epicurious + Evi, Alexander’s wife), serving Thai-Indonesian cuisine with a twist. From there you can enjoy a stunning view over the pool, to a dense bamboo forest behind, until your eyes reach the rice terraces and coconut trees on the other side of the valley. On the right, a huge lonely palm tree sticks out of the forest like a ship's mast. Use the telescope to take a closer look.
When you walk through the property, don’t forget to look out for the mangosteen, passionfruit and jackfruit trees. In front of the reception you can smell the scent of a cinnamon tree, and next to the restaurant, lemongrass works as organic mosquito repellent.
The second part of the resort is rapidly taking shape, planning to welcome the first guests in May. A suspension bridge leads to the almost finished tree house. The large round hobbit-inspired door opens the way to a cosy nest with ultimate jungle view. Next to it, two Bamboo houses are being completed, protruding from the lush green. An organic vegetable garden is also being planned.
‘It's been a labour of love. I just love seeing things flourishing. Three years ago, this was all abandoned rice paddies,’ Alexander describes the evolution of Sebatu Sanctuary.
It has been an ongoing project since 2016, that is now more than ever hitting the pulse of time. A little slice of paradise – secluded but yet so close to nature.
As a conservationist, Alexander managed to merge his personal experiences and life values into an eco-resort that also became his family's home. Sharing their philosophy and their living example with their guests most likely gives them food for thought, and eventually makes some of them reconsider their lifestyle.
The proximity to nature is healing us, and teaching us who we really are. It’s one of the few things that will never lose value and will always be real, as long as we maintain respect and harmony.
Book your stay at Sebatu Sanctuary.
TYPE: Boutique eco-resort
FEELING: Back to nature, jungle retreat, safari adventure
ROOM PICK: Safari tent
BREAKFAST: À la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner - not inclusive, but fairly priced. Expect to spend 30-60 USD for three meals per day for 2 persons.
SERVICE: Discrete, attentive, easygoing
RATES: 1.100.000 - 2.200.000 IDR / 60-122 EUR / 67-135 USD, depending on the season
WIFI: Yes
CHILDREN: Yes
RESTAURANT: Evicurious Restaurant, serving Thai-Indonesian cuisine
POOL/SPA: Natural chemical-free pool
I stayed courtesy of Sebatu Sanctuary. All expressed opinions are my own.